Our decision to visit this area of Spain was hatched last summer when I stumbled across a wine from our local Sidney liquor store, ESPELT SAULO. On a whim, I emailed the winery asking for suggestions for accommodations near their winery. When I received the response -- a month later -- I had almost forgotten about my original request. But the kind manner of the email, and the potential of the region, beckoned us on!
Now in Spain, but still in Catalan country, our excitement was rising as we bumbled our way on small country roads to the winery. Iconic visions of a grand Spanish winery bounced in our heads, as Flamenco dancers swirling between ancient oak barrels.
Our hearts sank when we saw an industrial concrete building set amidst a gravel drive (albiet plunked in the middle of a vineyard). With map in hand, could this be it? Our hopes were further dashed when we entered to discover no tasting room, and sadly, a chasm of a language barrier. They don't speak english or french, and that is the end of THAT!
I didn't give up. I went out to the car, fired up my laptop, and gathered the name of the kind gentleman who had inspired our hopes in the first place. Entering the winery again, i made my way to a different clerk. Trying to look as professional as possible, I requested if he was available. As it turns out, he's the international marketing manager and only spends one day a month on location. But to our advantage, I was now talking to the winery manager, who seemed to think that I may be someone of importance.
So, we had the V.I.P. tour of all aspects of the winery, then a seemingly endless tasting on the second floor.
Wine tasting at Espelt winery. Big pours, and no rushing!
Barrel aging in french and american oak.
We were introduced to the owner (who luckily enjoyed conversing in french) who showed us his office and love of art (the upstairs meeting room at the winery hosts frequent art displays). We also met his daughter Anna who studied in the US and is now in charge of wine production, and who had just returned from a wine-info-trading trip to Australian wineries.
This is a true new world winery. The family's first grapes were planted in 1904, but in the early 90s the family decided to start their own winery (AKA brand). The ESPELT holdings include over 200,000 hectares of vineyard. They broke the traditional rules of labelling. By way of a "family decision" as Anna recounts, they hired one of Spain's most famous graphic designers Javier Mariscal (responsible for the mascots and logo work for the Barcelona Olympics among many other credits) to create their labels. View his works HERE.
This is a winery with a fresh approach. Along the back wall, six spigots - resembling gas-station pumps - offer unaged local wine for quick consumption at a reasonable cost (sold at about $1.50 per litre... bring your own jug or buy one for 1 euro). At the other extreme, there's a 500ml sweet wine created specially for the Japanese Market, it sells for $50 at the winery, probably twice that in Japan.
Our favourite was the "Airam". It's a sweet wine (no sugar added) made from Granache that is made using the Solera method. Huge oak barrels contain the wine. Joven (young) wine is added annually at the top. Evaporation naturally occurs through the barrel. And wine is removed through the spigot in the bottom at the vinter's whim.
This wine was started in 1998 so the wine I am drinking now, as I write this, is a blend of wines up to 11 years old. As time continues, the wine continues... endlessly aging in the barrel. The production is limited, and the label is in Catalan. Imagine drinking an Espelt AIRAM 30 years from now, when there is still 40 year old wines aging in the same cask as the younger ones.
Solera aging in Oak vats. Notice the spigot on the bottom.
As we left the winery, we received a gift of an Espelt corkscrew which we dearly needed.
Camera battery died so now I'm taking pictures with my laptop!
We also received a fine recommendation for a local restaurant (in Spain, lunch starts at 3pm!).
Keep your eye open for "Emporda" wines, this region is up and coming. And if you spot it at your local liquor store, please buy a bottle of Espelt!
Visit the Espelt Winery website to view their interesting graphics and to get more information on the area.
And one of the advantages of travelling off-season is arriving at a bed&breakfast suited for 20, but we're the only ones there!
DM
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