Opened in 1927 and the former haunt of Josephine Baker, Henry Miller, Man Ray and the like, Dave the indefatigable researcher, has chosen an historic place for lunch. "La Coupole" is a vast room of linen tables, art deco lighting and 32 painted art deco columns, bustling with tuxedoed waiters.
As we enter, we are greeted by a handsome Indian man in long robes and a white jewelled fez who directs us to our table. Menus are provided by another gentleman and we unfurl our linen napkins. Dave has pegged it; this is a place of history and elegance, but within our taste and budget.
Dave's Salade Artichaude (artichoke salad) with Parmesan
Reading a menu in another language is a humbling experience. We don't like to think of ourselves as the Clampett's from the hinterland, but we're hoping we haven't ordered fried goose neck or some such thing. Oysters are done well here, so I opt for 6. I notice a note in the menu that indicates that if you park your car in such and such lot you get 2 oysters for free! Hmmm..too bad we aren't driving, seems like a deal!
Yet another tuxedoed waiter takes our order, and we settle in with our wine. I mention to Dave the deal with the parking and the free oysters and he looks puzzled. Seems I have equated huitres with hueres......the offer is 2 hours of parking for free, not 2 oysters for free. We laugh too loudly and show our Clampett roots.
Sitting beside us -- close beside us as these places really pack 'em in -- are two lovely old french ladies, obviously old friends who come here often. Dave looks over at at me; he'd like to ask them about the traditions of tipping. I encourage him on, I know they'll think he's a handsome young thing. And of course they do! They talk and talk, tell us they come here twice a month and have been doing so for many years. The two of them get preferred seating and a glass of champagne on the house. They are full of advice about tipping and exclaim the merits of La Coupole, the service, the attention. The two of them are charming and chatty, our meals have arrived and are getting cold as the chatter goes on. Mais Oui! One of the women notices our food chilling and jumps up! She searches out the waiter and tells him that we have all been talking too long and our food is cold...we need new plates! Our waiter obliges. Our plates are not just warmed, they are brand new servings. Dave and I shuffle our feet in embarrassment, not sure if this is a cultural thing or more Clampett-ness.
Shuffling our feet on the tile floor
The lovely women leave with handshakes all round, and we enjoy our meal. The petit creme, (espresso with hot cream on the side) with Isl Flottante (floating islands) for dessert, we are happy happy.
Isl Flottante (poached meringue drizzled with caramel sauce, floating in creme anglaise topped with roasted almonds)
We ask for our bill (in France the table is ours 'til we ask for the bill, we could sit for hours!) and our very pleasant waiter obliges. Dave pulls out his wallet, and a few bills and his "Navigo" (transit pass) overflow onto the table. Our waiter does a double take... "Monsieur, do you have a Navigo?" In french this is much harder to figure out than you'd think, because everyone has a Navigo, why is he talking about it?! Turns out that we are eligible for a 15% discount with a Navigo! Who knew!!
A better deal than two free oysters.....
KA
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