Thursday, March 26, 2009

The Medieval City of Carcassone





March 24th

We woke this morning in a medieval tower, inside a walled citadel built in the middle ages. This area was settled in the 6th century, besieged in the crusades, built up again, abandoned and quarried for the stones, then rebuilt in the 19th century by a duke with a hankering for the medieval period. This guy didn't let historical accuracy get in the way of his imagination, and put arrow slits and pointed roofs where none would have existed. However the effect is still spectacular.
We are in a tiny room, Chambre Jeune, with yellow bedding, yellow cups and bowls, and yellow walls. We heard there was a boulangerie nearby, so off I ventured down the winding narrow streets for our breakfast bread. Naturally I couldn't find it, as really, I can't find my way out of a paper bag. I was looking like a lost tourist when I passed a couple smoking outside a restaurant. She called bonjour to me and asked where I was from, and chatted away merrily with me understanding every 15th word. I asked where the bakery was and she beckoned me inside. I followed thinking maybe there was a bakery hiding there, but she took me upstairs and gave me a tour of her restaurant. It was charming but I did want a bakery and asked again. Ahhh, Boulangerie! She grabbed my arm, and off we went, arm in arm along the cobblestones. She greeted everyone she passed, double kissed most of them, and led me to a tiny bakery. Michelle, (for we were on a first name basis now) introduced me to the bakery owner and I purchased my pain campagne. With the bread under my arm, we stepped outside and double kissed, and I was on my way home to chambre jeune. Dave had the coffee ready which we drank from tiny yellow cups, and we ate the bread with preserves. Sadly the loaf was the worst we've ever had in France, and we had to toss most of it. However the cheese we bought later..now that was good. But that's another story.



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