Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Puglia. Where's that?

Weeks ago I booked a "cheap" flight to Italy, with trepidation, on one of many discount carriers available with a "WWW" preceeding an airline name. Italy's official carrier, "Air Italia" wanted $1800 for a one way ticket. Myair.com wanted only $70. We decided to go with the discount airline.

But don't be fooled by the term "Discount", they charge for every computer keystroke. Firstly, you pay the entry fee. To play the discount game, the earlier you book a flight, the cheaper it is. BUT, if the plane doesn't fill, then often the flight is cancelled. 

Next, you pay for checked luggage -- this is where they make their profits. Prepurchased luggage carriage is $15 per bag (one bag per person), but it can only weigh 18kg. If you arrive at the airport with more, you pay dearly! (at press time, it's close to $10 extra PER KG). 

Carry-on luggage is restricted to one piece only (sorry ladies, that includes your purse) and can weigh only 10kg. Many carryon bags are weighed and tagged if overweight is suspected.

Finally it's time to pay for the flight. You have no choice but to pay the 10 euro "credit card payment fee". And if you're a sucker for insurance, pre-boarding perks, and a $10 sandwich..... that's also extra, and it all adds up.

But we're happy to be on our way. Unfortunately with discount airlines, there's no further contact once you've booked your ticket... no reminder email, no online boarding passes, no maps, no instructions as to terminal etc.  and Paris Charles de Gaule airport is huge, and has three teminals! Which one? Luckily we find our way to TERMINAL 3. It's a bare bones hanger sort-of-place, and empty. Nobody. With a sinking feeling we wonder... does this airline even exist? ( have they taken off with our money?) 



Terminal 3 check-in counters. Who's checking in?



I wonder if we will be staying the night?

2 hours later, the terminal sputters to life. In total, there's 40 check-in counters, and ours is one of only 4 in action. It seems the discount airlines are having a tough time right now... nobody's flying and flights are being cancelled. But luckily our's is reality and we board the plane (one hour late) and we're on our way.

We've landed in Puglia: the "heel of the boot" of Italy, and our first stop is four nights in Ostuni, "Citta Bianca", the white walled city. Our apartment is right next to the old town which predates modern Victoria by some 1700 years (give or take 200). 

Don't think of driving here even with a miniature car. Most "streets" are pedestrian, not because they're so narrow, but there's steps involved too. Park close to where you're going, and walk.


Ostuni, Puglia, the white city


The countryside here is lined with ancient stone walls spotted with olive groves


This is our street, in the "newer" end of town (1700s)



Cheap wine. This is the boxed variety and only 60 cents.






The view from our rooftop terrace. Good suntanning spot!


Luckily, we've planned our stay to coincide with the weekly market. It's on Saturday's only, and it's the largest outdoor market we've ever seen. Besides a football-field parking lot of shoe, lingerie and kitchen tool vendors, there's also the requisite food stalls brimming with a feast from the local countryside. We load up on all the freshest regional produce including: strawberries, 1kg  of rapini, 10 early artichokes (10 for $3), sicilian oranges, buffalo mozzerella, tomatoes, fava beans, procuitto, 500 grams of local olives, and one lemon.



DM

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